4.6.3: Waves

Learning Objectives

• State the characteristics of a wave.
• Calculate the velocity of wave propagation, given frequency and wavelength.

Figure \(\PageIndex{1}\): Waves in the ocean behave similarly to all other types of waves. (credit: Steve Jurveston, Flickr)

A wave is a disturbance that propagates, or moves from the place it was created. The simplest waves repeat themselves for several cycles and are associated with simple harmonic motion. Let us start by considering the simplified water wave in Figure \(\PageIndex{2}\). The wave is an up and down disturbance of the water surface. It causes a sea gull to move up and down in simple harmonic motion as the wave crests and troughs (peaks and valleys) pass under the bird. The time for one complete up and down motion is the wave’s period \(T\). The wave’s frequency is \(f=1 / T\), as usual. The wave itself moves to the right in the figure. This movement of the wave is actually the disturbance moving to the right, not the water itself (or the bird would move to the right). We define wave velocity \(v_{\text {w }}\) to be the speed at which the disturbance moves. Wave velocity is sometimes also called the propagation velocity or propagation speed, because the disturbance propagates from one location to another.

MISCONCEPTION ALERT

Many people think that water waves push water from one direction to another. In fact, the particles of water tend to stay in one location, save for moving up and down due to the energy in the wave. The energy moves forward through the water, but the water stays in one place. If you feel yourself pushed in an ocean, what you feel is the energy of the wave, not a rush of water. We will discuss energy in more detail in a later chapter.

Figure \(\PageIndex{2}\): An idealized ocean wave passes under a sea gull that bobs up and down in simple harmonic motion. The wave has a wavelength \(\lambda\), which is the distance between adjacent identical parts of the wave. The up and down disturbance of the surface propagates parallel to the surface at a speed \(v_{\mathrm{w}}\).

The water wave in the figure also has a length associated with it, called its wavelength \(\lambda\), the distance between adjacent identical parts of a wave. (\(\lambda\) is the distance parallel to the direction of propagation.) The speed of propagation \(v_{\mathrm{w}}\) is the distance the wave travels in a given time, which is one wavelength in the time of one period. In equation form, that is

\[v_{\mathrm{w}}=\frac{\lambda}{T} \nonumber \]

or

\[v_{\mathrm{w}}=f \lambda. \label{1} \]

This fundamental relationship holds for all types of waves. For water waves, \(v_{\mathrm{w}}\) is the speed of a surface wave; for sound, \(v_{\mathrm{w}}\) is the speed of sound; and for visible light, \(v_{\mathrm{w}}\) is the speed of light, for example.

One note of caution with Equation \(\eqref{1}\): despite the appearance, wave speed \(v_{\text {w }}\) is a not a function of frequency \(f\) and wavelength \(\lambda\). When \(f\) changes (or \(\lambda\) changes), \(v_{\text {w }}\) does not change (you will see this explicitly later with sound and light waves). Wave speed is a property of the medium the wave travels in. Unless the medium itself changes, the wave speed remains constant. This is true of sound and light waves, as well as almost all other types of waves you will see in this textbook (water waves, waves on a string, etc.). So, what happens when frequency or wavelength does change, then? The wavelength of frequency changes to compensate. For example, if the frequency doubles for a given wave, instead of the wave speed doubling, the wavelength will decrease to half, so that the product \(f \lambda\) remains constant.

TAKE-HOME EXPERIMENT: WAVES IN A BOWL

Fill a large bowl or basin with water and wait for the water to settle so there are no ripples. Gently drop a cork into the middle of the bowl. Estimate the wavelength and period of oscillation of the water wave that propagates away from the cork. Remove the cork from the bowl and wait for the water to settle again. Gently drop the cork at a height that is different from the first drop. Does the wavelength depend upon how high above the water the cork is dropped?

Calculate the Velocity of Wave Propagation: Gull in the Ocean

Calculate the wave velocity of the ocean wave in Figure \(\PageIndex{2}\) if the distance between wave crests is 10.0 m and the time for a sea gull to bob up and down is 5.00 s.

Strategy

We are asked to find \(v_{\mathrm{w}}\). The given information tells us that \(\lambda=10.0 \mathrm{~m}\) and \(T=5.00 \mathrm{~s}\). Therefore, we can use \(v_{\mathrm{w}}=\frac{\lambda}{T}\) to find the wave velocity.

Solution

1. Enter the known values into \(v_{\mathrm{w}}=\frac{\lambda}{T}\):

   \[v_{\mathrm{w}}=\frac{10.0 \mathrm{~m}}{5.00 \mathrm{~s}}. \nonumber\]

2. Solve for \(v_{\mathrm{w}}\) to find \(v_{\mathrm{w}}=2.00 \mathrm{~m} / \mathrm{s}\).

Discussion

This slow speed seems reasonable for an ocean wave. Note that the wave moves to the right in the figure at this speed, not the varying speed at which the sea gull moves up and down.

Section Summary

• A wave is a disturbance that moves from the point of creation with a wave velocity \(v_{\mathrm{w}}\).
• A wave has a wavelength \(\lambda\), which is the distance between adjacent identical parts of the wave.
• Wave velocity and wavelength are related to the wave’s frequency and period by \(v_{\mathrm{w}}=\frac{\lambda}{T}\) or \( v_{\mathrm{w}}=f \lambda \). However, wave velocity is a property of the medium and remains constant as wavelength or frequency changes.

Glossary

wave velocity

the speed at which the disturbance moves; also called wave speed, propagation velocity, or propagation speed

wavelength

the distance between adjacent identical parts of a wave